Tank Cycling
The most important step in preparing for a pet axolotl is establishing a nitrogen cycle for a safe environment for it to thrive in.
This step is not optional, it is mandatory and must be done WITHOUT your axolotl in the tank.
Methods of Tank Cycling
There are different methods people use to cycle a tank.
The first step is to decide which method you are going use. You will want to choose a method that you are comfortable with and stick to that method. The method we prefer is the 'fish-less' cycling method so we will be educating you on how we go about it.
Fish-less cycling method
What you need to get started:
API Freshwater master test kit (this is the most accurate- test strip kits are unreliable)
1 bottle of Seachem Prime (dechlorinates tap water)
1 bottle of concentrated bacteria (safe options: Seachem Stability, Fritz 7, or Fritz TurboStart 700)
Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride Solution for use with Fishless Cycling
Tank heater (optional)
Seeded filter media or a seasoned sponge filter *OPTIONAL, but speeds up process (a regular sponge filter works as well)
Log Book for progress tracking
Tank cycling requires a lot of patience and monitoring and can weeks to months to complete. This needs to be completed WITHOUT your axolotl in the tank. You will have to wait to purchase your axolotl until your tank is fully cycled. Otherwise, the only option you have is to keep your axolotl in a plastic tub of dechlorinated tap water. Tubbing also requires you to complete 100% daily water changes. Though this requires more work, the benefit it allows bonding time with your axolotl.vior and is easier for feeding young juveniles.
Steps in fish-less cycling:
1. Add a heater
If you’ve decided to use an aquarium heater during cycling, this will help speed up the process by encouraging bacteria growth. The temperature should be kept between 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit during the cycling process.
2. Add Ammonium Chloride (Ammonia) - (THIS IS TOXIC TO AXOLOTLS DO NOT USE IN TANK WATER WITH YOUR AXOLOTL IN THE TANK!! EVER!!!
Follow the directions on the bottle of your Dr. Tim's Ammonia Bottle based on your tank size. It should tell you to add 2 drops per gallon of water in your tank. Do not immediately test the water as the results will not be accurate. This is because the bacteria you will be adding converts the ammonia. After adding the ammonia you will need to wait until 24 hours. Now is the time to check that your ammonia is at 4ppm, if not, dose again to get it to 4ppm. Never dose to more than 4ppm.
3. Add concentrated beneficial bacteria
By adding bacteria to start the nitrogen cycle will help convert the ammonia you’ve added as well as the waste your axolotl will produce. Follow the directions directly from the bottle for the amount and duration of treatments specific to whatever product you choose to use.
DO NOT USE THE BENEFICIAL BACTERIA BALLS! These will get eaten by your axolotl and can cause death and may need removed by a veterinarian.
4. Test your water daily
You are going to need to test your water daily. The more frequently you test the water and add ammonia as needed the faster your tank will cycle. Remember to log the date and the results each time you test. This ensures that there will be ammonia for the beneficial bacteria to eat and convert. The ammonia imitates what your axolotl will produce. This step will need to be repeated until enough nitrites and nitrates build up in preparation of converting the ammonia your axolotl produces.
*Note: You can top off the tank with new water if evaporation occurs during this process.*
You are going to need an API Master Test Kit for freshwater tanks for this step.
In your test kit you will find a test review guide that shows the different levels of each parameter you will be testing. Follow the instructions provided with your test kit for use. Below are some tips for completing this step. TIP: Shake the bottles well before adding the drops into the test tubes.
Your PH levels should be between 7.6 - 8.0ppm. This is not as important to test during the cycle but you want to be sure your ph does not drop too low or it can cause issues with your cycle. If it gets low you can add a bit of baking soda or buffer (see recommended products) to the water to get it back up to the ideal ph.
Your levels for ammonia should be 4pmm during the cycle. if it gets too high, do not add anymore ammonia. Following these directions you should not have issues with it rising about 4ppm.
When you start seeing the ammonia drop, the nitrites and nitrates will slowly start to rise. You do not need to see your nitrites go back down until your cycle is complete. Do not do water changes during the cycle! This will slow the entire process down and make it very frustrating of a time for you.
Your ammonia should go to 0ppm first, when it does, re-dose with ammonia to get it back up to 4ppm. It will consistently drop to 0, this means you are nearing the end but until your nitrites are at 0 and nitrates are between 5-20ppm and not changing witht he addition of ammonia the cycle is not complete.
When your nitrites drop to 0ppm, nitrates are between 5-20ppm and ammonia is dropping to 0ppm your tank should be cycled. But lets go to the next step to check it.
5. Check your cycle
When you get to this point, re-dose the tank with ammonia to 4ppm. Test the water each day until it goes back to 0 for 3 days in a row. When it does, you will know your tank is cycled!
IDEAL WATER PAREMENTERS:
Ammonia - 0ppm is ideal anything over 0.25ppm needs to be addressed (Ammonia is toxic)
Nitrites - 0ppm (Nitrites are toxic)
Nitrates - 5ppm - 20ppm (low levels = cycle crash, high levels = toxic)
PH - 7.6 - 8
GH (General Hardness) - 125.3 - 250.6ppm
KH (Carbonate Hardness) - 53.7 - 143.2ppm
Temperature: 60 - 65 F
5. Add your Axolotl
First, remove the heater! You will need to ensure the tank temperature drops to between the ideal 60-68 degrees Fahrenheit before adding your axolotl.
Congratulations you’ve Cycled Your Tank!